Learning the ape index is not important for climbers only; it also affects the performance of basketball, swimming, and boxing players. So, it's good to learn how to measure this feature.
Average Ape Index - How to Calculate It?
Te ape index commonly measures the difference between the player's height and arm span. It may be positive, neutral, or negative. If you love outdoor adventures, climbing in particular, a positive value of this index will be an advantage for you.
Males' average ape index is not similar to that of females. In general, the average value of this measurement is between +2.6 - +9.4cm.
More precisely, the average value of pro male's ape index will lie between +3.6 - +10.4cm. However, that of professional females will be +1.7cm to +8.3cm.
The above statistics reveal that the overall ape index of male climbers will be higher than that of females. So, never take the same value as the standard for males and females.
Do You Know?
It is true that a positive value of the average ape index is an advantage for pro climbers, but it never means an athlete with a smaller value will not perform well. Adam Ondra is a world-famous climber with almost equal arm span and height.
However, he mastered his climbing skills by tailoring his strength and climbing style. The ape index is not the only factor in deciding whether you will be a good or bad climber.
How to Measure Ape Index?
Calculating your ape index is not a big deal, you can use two different methods to take it out. Here are both tricks; you can use any of them accordingly.
Method 1: Height to Arm Span Ratio
An easy way to calculate the average ape index is by measuring the ratio of your arm span and height. Use this formula:
Ape Index = Arm Span/Height
Note: Take both measurements in the same units. If the arm span is in centimeters, height should also be in cm.
A neutral ape index ratio is 1. A value higher than 1 means the arm span is greater than the height. However, a value less than 1 means height is more than the wing span.
Method 2: Difference Between Arm Span and Height
You can also subtract your height from the arm span to measure your ape index, i.e.,
Ape Index = Wingspan - Height
Unlike the ratio method, the normal or neutral ape index value in the subtraction method is 0. A value less than 0 means height is more than arm span and vice versa.
Ape Index of Famous Male Mountaineers
We have compiled the average ape indexes of the top professional male climbers. This list will help you compare your ape index to that of pro mountaineers.
Ape Index of Famous Female Mountaineers
We have listed down the ape indexes of 10 professional female climbers. If you are also a female mountaineer, this analysis will help you to calculate your index value.
Analysis of 20 Professional Climbers' Ape Index
From the above calculations, we can see that most mountaineers have a positive value of the ape index. It means that their arm spans are higher than their height.
This analysis justifies the fact that a positive ape index value brings more advantages than a negative value. So, climbers with larger arms will have a strong grip on mounting than those with smaller arms.
How Does Positive Ape Index Impacts Climber's Performance?
Most expert climbers and analysts suggest that climbing becomes easier with a positive ape index value. It is due to the fact that longer arms enable you to mount a height faster than your competitors with lower arm spans.
Matt Samet, in his book "The Climbing Dictionary", says:
However, some climbers have stood bold despite their lower positive ape index. They did this by strengthening their other climbing aspects, i.e., strength and style.
Is Higher Ape Index an Inevitable Factor to Be a Pro Climber?
From the above studies, we can conclude that a higher ape index is a great asset for climbers. But it never means a person with relatively lower arms should give up his climbing exercises.
Rather than relying on the ape index, he can master his other climbing skills with a keen focus. By strengthening his trainable factors, he can be a great climber.
Adam Ondra is a world-famous mountaineer with a low ape index ratio. How did he succeed? Definitely, by focusing on his strength and trainable skills!
An ape index plays an important role in determining how good a climber will be. A strong positive ape index is a great asset for a climber to become an expert in his field.
One can easily calculate his index value with a complete understanding of the average ape index. Mastering this will assist you greatly if you are an outdoor adventure lover.